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New movement choice

The new movements have arrived, the Sellita SW300-1. Started to case a Grey dialed CD-1 using the SW300-1 today to confirm movement rings fitted etc, and all is perfect.

 

Last Metta sold

I am keeping a few for personal use, but I have sold the last one that I am willing to part with. Such a shame, as I know I will most likely never see another Metta strap.  It is the nicest leather I have ever handled.

CD-1 has arrived

New White and Grey CD2 dials

To assemble the last remaining CD2 cases, we have these really nice White and Grey dials to use.

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Diving with the crown out

Never a good idea!
A commercial diver friend of mine, went diving with his crown out. How that happened remains undetermined, but this is the result. As you can see by the bezel, it is well used! (as a hammer)
I had to basically throw everything except the case, and just renewed it for him.
I pried the movement out, as it welded itself to the case, is the reason for the broken bits. Could save nothing anyway.

As arrived to Aegir Watches and the last few , as going back to the customer

CD-1 update

From the email list, re-posted here.

 

Hello Gents,

Summer holiday in Switzerland and Germany, for the watch component companies, so not a lot to tell.

What we did decide before the break, was to make the second hand the same length from the center as the minute hand.
The reason for this is twofold. Time, and cost, but mostly time. To tool for the second hand, is 1200 CHF, but as the minute and hour is already in production, so likely the watch would be held up. This second hand they have already, well the tools at least, so I looked at a lot of watches online and the length of the second vs the minute, is an issue for some style dials, but on the CD-1 it goes past the appliques, and I think it looks fine as it really is not much different to as it is now.

The dial maker does not want to do Blued steel appliques. It sounds like they have had issues in the past, so of course we can not heat blue brass. Chemical blue has a reaction with Super Luminova, so they say. I have never heard of it, but I must listen to them, as they have been doing this longer than I. Shame, as I wanted a Grey dial, with heat Blued appliques and hands for myself.
Hands are no issue, but would not look right, with Blued hands and Rhodium appliques.

So it will have to be a future project. I have already been asked why not change dial makers?
Then I would need new print tools, and date window applique, which costs thousands. The CD-2 was criticized a little for being to costly, and that kind of thing was the reason why. There was 8 new tools for the dial alone, before actually making them, and that was over 10k just for that.  Re-using some, and only having to make 3 new appliques this time, is one of the reasons I can make these first watches cheaper.

Cases are in production, dials are being worked on, hands are too.
Movements are sourced, and as a minimum, Isofrane rubber to ship. I am hoping to have different buckles made in-house by then, but am having trouble to have my CNC guy available, as he is already a full time machinist.
Making something like the Ennebi roller buckle is easy, as this is all 3 axis machining with only one work holding operation, but I think I might get criticism if I just copied that. I have already made a few out of interest only.
Anyway, I am working on that.

As for deposits. Well I know I do not need to ask many on the list anyway, but I want to see how it works as well, and the issues with it.
If the CD-1 is successful,  and I can start with a second production, then I plan to very quickly put another model in the line up, to take the place of the CD-2 watch. And I would try a pre-order on that one.

So what would be helpful guys, if your still keen on the CD-1, please drop me a line confirming that, with desired CD-1 number, and I will fix the list.
As for a deposit date, well no big deal, but maybe end of August would work. I will email each person and give them details.
The date is not overly important, but the new CD-2 dials are coming soon, to build the last remaining cases up, so once they are here, the interest in the CD-1 will be a little more, as there is White and Grey dials.

CD-1

Aegir 05.05.2014The CD-1 has been on the back burner for a long time, and has recently gone through some changes as well.

The dial size was increased over the CD-2, from 30mm to 33mm, and the anti magnetic system is gone to reduce the thickness, now done to just over 13mm. The He valve is also gone, and this is more to do with what has been requested.

On the new renders, the dial and hands are not finished, as these are been worked on now, and the applied markers will be slightly larger, moving up in % to the increase in dial size retaliative to what they are now. What will change on them, is the area of lume, which will have a much greater area. Second hand will have a lume dot on this model, and there will be three dial colours, Black, White, and a Galvanic Grey.  I am working with the the dial maker, and hand company, on matching a darker appliqué and hand set, such as heat blued, or Black Rhodium for use on the White and Grey dials. I am not sure if I will go down this path though, as this time.

The CD-1 will be ready later this year, and will be 24 watches only, in the first production. The second production will not be until mid next year, meaning 2015 delivery. This first run, will be offered on a pre-order, with small deposits of $250 being asked, not to use, but to keep the list more realistic.  The first 24 watches will be offered at the price of $1600 AUD, and this is inclusive of Fedex shipping. After pre-order, they will be $1750 AUD plus $100 AUD shipping.

Bezels will also be Kolsterised on this model,  bringing the hardness to 1000 to 1200 HV0.05

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CD-2 Crystal back

So one thing that did come out of the LE watch was the crystal back. I like the Soprod movement, I like it a lot. It is also a well finished good looking movement, and in my opinion should be seen.
I made 15 of these, separate to the LE cases, and there has been a couple assembled so far, with the remainder next week.
These have the ceramic bezel markers too, which are a nice touch. The first picture is the LE, but that is the bezel design on the crystal back watch.

I like these movements in general too, and have had one one my wrist since Basel 2011. Has not missed a beat.

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Mhvj movement saga last part

I am just realising if I continue to go through the steps of the entire Mhvj saga, it will need more than 3 parts!

For that reason I will condense it somewhat, highlighting the key parts in this last instalment.

 

So the movements went back, that is where we left off from the last post.

They also claimed they were not over oiled, but rather the finish shows it up. Other watch brands have managed bead blasted without showing oil on the bridges, because they do not put oil on the bridges! Besides the point really, when there are damaged screws and scratches.

OK, so this went on, and then they demanded that next time they delivered, that they would visit Thomas Prescher, and he could accept the movements in front of them (I assume they were going to give him at least an hour!) and he would have to pay them CASH!

 

I have never heard of such a thing, nor had a company insult me in such way, and of course insult Thomas. This was the point when I decided to involve the Festina Group, which owns Mhvj, as well as Soprod and a lot of others. To their credit, they got involved very quickly, and tried to sort it out. At least they started that way, with best intentions.

 

They offered in the end, a perlage finish with circular stripes on bridges and rotor, on 20, and on 4 of them perlage with Geneva stripes, which I could not work out.

OK, I said lets get it done, and please let a watch maker put them together this time.

Months went by, and they said there was a delay.

To keep it short, Thomas Prescher decided to pull out. I will not print his reasons here, but given the 2.5 years that had gone by at this stage, and the way they had conducted themselves, and the issues, it is only surprising he stayed in as long as he did. I made new case backs to suit, as I was sure they were coming any day.

 

I found some information through a contact, that Mhvj had an issue with the date change, and had for some time. Next time I spoke with the Festina contact, I tried his honesty, and asked ”why the delay?” and to his credit, he told the truth.

Many months go by, and they finally arrived.

 

The finish looked good, no excess oil, no damaged screws. I am lead to believe that Soprod actually put them together. Maybe they should have given Soprod the job 3 years earlier!

 

Anyway, I did my checks before giving them to the watchmaker. The date change seemed clunky on some, smooth on others. Overall, I was happy to pass them over for checking.

He asked me to sit with him the next day, and we went through the six that I asked him to assemble first. A date change at 12:00, 12:01, 12:10, 11:57, next was 11:58, 12:04, 12:00,12:01 , so that was two watches. He showed on one more, and that almost made a fool of him, 12,12,12,12:04 so I had seen enough, and sent them back. Now I decided at this point, without Thomas Prescher, there really was no point, and I let Mhvj out of the commitment.

Mhvj will never tell me anything of course, but looking at the whole story, some comments from Festina, such as ” they should not have taken the order” , the size change in the movement, the date issue, leads me to believe they sold me a movement they did not really have, as it was still in development. It would appear, that it still is. I know I was the first customer, I also know that no one else has these movements. I can only imagine the trouble if a company ordered 500 or more!

So I kept one movement, and have fitted it to a watch that is now in the back of the safe, one day maybe in the Aegir museum. I did of course take the movement that behaved the best.

I do not plan to sell it, as I can not warranty the movement, but as far as I am aware, it is the only watch that uses the Cal 2005, and if they keep going the way they are going, it will remain that way.

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